Röckenwagner

2435 Main Street (bet. Ocean Park & Pico Boulevards.), Los Angeles
(310) 399-6504.

our comments

Housed in a Frank Gehry-designed building, Röckenwagner personifies the kind of dining experience that mirrors Santa Monica’s casual vibe. It features the fabulous wines and attentive service for which the restaurant has long been known, and meals here are invariably laid-back, affordable and interesting affairs. A previous experiment of splitting the restaurant into two distinct parts---a casual brasserie and fine dining venue---has been reversed, although guests may still choose between à la carte or tasting menus. Highlights include crab cake with pumpkin chutney, venison loin with chanterelles and caramelized chestnuts, salmon with red onion confit and veal goulash with spaetzle. In the spring, watch for intriguing dishes utilizing fresh white asparagus imported from Europe. Sunday brunch on the sunlit patio is one of the best bargains in town, featuring omelets; delicious pastries; and the Röckenwagner pretzel burger, served on a pretzel bread bun, with caramelized onions, Swiss cheese and fries.

- March 2005