Vincenti

11930 San Vicente Boulevard (Montana Avenue), Los Angeles
(310) 207-0127.

our comments

This sleekly modern trattoria, the effort of Maureen Vincenti and chef Gino Angelini, is all marble counters, blond woods and stunning modern Italian light fixtures. The menu consists of the simple yet flavorful cuisine that Angelini did so well at Vincenti’s late Rex, Il Ristorante: homemade pastas, an old-country green lasagna inspired by Elvira, Gino’s grandmother; a signature mixed green salad with lobster, mushrooms, artichokes, apples and citrus dressing; and, especially, succulent, fork-tender meats from the wood-burning rotisserie and oven. Fish also can be handled well, including the swordfish with creamed spinach and port-shallot sauce and filet of Mediterranean sea bass with lobster, Swiss chard torte and lobster and capers sauce. As at Rex, the wine list is impressive, and the desserts---caramelized apple purée in caramel cake with green-apple sorbetto, for example, are divine.

- March 2005

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